Coin Slot Washing Machine Stuck

Posted on 13-05-2021 by admin

If something substantial like keys or coins get stuck inside the drum it can write off a washing machine these days. This is because the majority only have plastic outer tubs. I’ve seen many where the tub has had a hole punched through it or a crack has appeared. Other parts such as the inner drum, heater, and front plates can also get damaged.

This is a quick guide on how to remove something stuck in a washing machine (usually between the outer drum and inner drum). If something has gone through the holes in the drum, and when the drum is going round you can hear something scraping it’s often an underwire from a bra, but many other obstructions get stuck in washing machines too.

Don’t just start stripping things down without thought

Don’t just dive in and start taking the washing machine apart. If there is definitely something stuck and it is making a noise when the drum turns (and you have taken off the drive belt to ensure that the noise is definitely coming from the drum and not a fault on the motor) then something probably needs to be done. If you know what the obstruction is and it is strong then it clearly could do some serious damage. If it is something flimsy, which you can’t imagine doing any damage, then the worse that’s likely to happen is it could make its way into the pump filter and block it sometime in the future. This would definitely be inconvenient, but it something that should be able to be relatively easily fixed.

If something has gone into the machine but it is not making a noise, then unless you know it is something that could seriously damage the drum or the plastic outer tub it could be an option to just keep an eye on it and see if it makes its way into the pump, most of which should be protected by a pump filter. If you cannot hear any noise when using the machine, but you know something’s got stuck inside, the first place to check would be pump filter..

Stuck Washing Machine Hose

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Bra underwires

The most common object that gets stuck and makes a scraping noise when the drum turns is an underwire from a bra causing a constant scraping noise when the drum is turned. These are far less likely to cause any serious damage as they aren’t substantial enough, but they can cause leaks by working their way to the front plate seal and more commonly they can get stuck in the sump hose and filter. Once in the filter they snag bits of cotton and fabric, and eventually a build up becomes great enough to block the water from draining. If this does happen though it can usually be easily removed through the pump filter.

If looking for a bra underwire the first thing to check is that a small piece of the end of the wire isn’t poking through a hole in the drum. It may not be obvious at all and a normal look could miss it, but I’ve managed to get the odd one out this way. Open the door and look very carefully, feel all round the holes with your hand. If you are very lucky, a millimetre of the end could be protruding from one of the holes. You’d be able to pull it back through with some pliers.

If there’s no sign of it try to get the obstruction from where the sump hose is attached

Obviously make sure the washer is unplugged from the mains and all the water has drained out, then take off the back panel. If it’s one of those washers with a useless small inspection plate at the back instead of a proper full back panel you will have to gain access to the sump hose by laying the machine on its front.

Have a bath towel ready to catch the water that will be inside as there is always some water in the sump hose
The sump hose is the black concertina hose that goes from the bottom of the tub to the water pump
Take off this hose at the tub end, and pull it away from the tub

If you are lucky, the wire will be in the top of this hose. Look carefully inside it and then feel carefully through the hole in the bottom of the tub. The wire could be round here – possibly trapped under the heating element.

If you cannot see or feel it here, try tipping the washing machine back and forth to see if the wire slides about and get it to slide to the hole where you can reach it.

Removing coins and other obstructions

If it isn’t a bra wire, and you can’t find anything in the sump hose and filter, or by tipping the washer back and forth so that the object drops through the sump hose hole then you can’t do any more without resorting to major surgery – that is, stripping the washing machine down. A worrying trend among many manufacturers is to produce washing machines with sealed outer tubs. This makes stripping down a tub to carry out any repair including removing a trapped object impossible. This is a ridiculous idea and these washing machines should be avoided but sadly the majority of washers seem to be going down this path – especially the cheaper ones.

Removing a drum paddle (lifter) to gain access to the bottom of the tub

Washing machines usually have 3 plastic drum paddles (or lifters), some of which are detachable. Sometimes one of the holes on the top of it is larger than the rest and a small screwdriver inserted down it can depress a tab allowing the lifter to slide back and off. If so you can remove one to gain access to the bottom of the outer tub. Make sure you prize the metal drum tab back up and clip the paddle back securely in place because if it comes off mid-wash it will not be pleasant.

If you can’t work out how to get one off it may be that it isn’t designed to come off. Indesit and Hotpoint drum paddles commonly come off this way but not all will. If you break a drum paddle or take it off and cannot get it back you will not be able to use the machine and could need a complete new drum if the paddles aren’t available as spare parts (check here washing machine drum lifter (paddle) replacements).

Sometimes you can get an obstruction out through the dispenser/tub hose or the heating element

If you suspect the obstruction is trapped somewhere in the middle of the drum you may be able to get to it through the hole in the outer drum where the dispenser hose is attached. This is where the water and detergent is washed into the drum from the soap drawer.

Sometimes an underwire gets mangled and trapped on the heating element and removing the element can allow access to it. However, it depends where the heater is, some are right at the front of the machine and very hard to access and some are at the back behind the rear panel and easy to access. This method is not recommended though unless desperate because it may involve stripping a washing machine down, and you may not be able to refit the heater even if you get it out. Worse still you could refit it incorrectly and it pops out during a wash cycle flooding the kitchen, or you don’t get it located under its holding bracket and the drum bashes it relentlessly on spin. However, this article looks at where is the heater and how to remove it?

Did you recently put a load of clothes in your Whirlpool washer and have them come out wet?

If your washer is spinning, but not expelling the water from your clothes there is a problem with your machine.

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“How To Fix Your Broken Appliance”

While this can be very frustrating, we have some potential problems and fixes for you to try. Here’s a look at what may be happening.

Here is a shortlist of what may go wrong and what you need to check:

Unbalanced Load
Drain Hose Clogged
Shift Actuator Failed
Drain Filter Clogged
Defective Drain Pump
Lid Switch Failed
and more

Is The Load In the Drum Out Of Balance?

This is the simplest of all the fixes we will discuss.

Sometimes when you wash bulky items such as blankets, it can cause the tub or drum to become out of balance.

When this occurs the water will not drain properly, and can leave your clothes soaking wet.

The washer will not proceed to the spin cycle, once an unbalanced load detected.

Always try to create a good balance with your wash loads.

You can do this by adding less or more items to ensure the garments are not too heavy on one side.

After the wash cycle has ended you will know if this is the issue because the contents in the washer will be primarily on one side. If this occurs, balance it out and run the spin cycle again.

Inspect The Drain Hose (not Common Issue)

The next thing you will want to check is the drain hose connected to the back of your washing machine.

If this hose is bent or clogged it will restrict the water from draining out, and your clothes will come out wet after the cycle is finished.

You’ll need to disconnect the hose from the drain pump and make sure the hose isn’t bent. Also, check for blockages restricting water flow in both the hose and the drain pump.

It’s also a great idea to check that the drain hose is positioned correctly. If the hose is too far or not far enough down inside the standpipe, it can cause improper draining. This in turn causes the Whirlpool washer to not drain the water completely.

Shift actuator failed

Another common issue with Whirlpool top loading machine is when shift actuator stopped working properly.

This actuator switch transmission gears between the agitating and spin cycle.

But also counting revolutions of the basket, cause it have a basket speed sensor.

If it failed mechanically or electrically, the washer will be stuck in the agitating cycle and will not proceed to the spin cycle.

Check The Coin Trap or Drain Filter (Common Issue)

Your Whirlpool machine has what’s called a coin trap or drain filter. When this becomes blocked your washing machine will not spin your clothes dry.

This part is located near the pump and works as a filter to trap any foreign object that gets into the drain. The most common objects are small ones left in pockets such as keys, coins, paperclips, pins, and even small socks, etc.

You can find the drain filter behind the access panel on the bottom front of your machine. The filter is easy to clean and once it’s clean the water should flow better when draining from the machine.

Coin Slot Washing Machine Stuck Washing Machine

The Drain Pump May be Clogged or Defective

If the hose and filter are both okay, you’ll need to check the drain pump.

It may be clogged with debris or could be defective and needs to be replaced.

To check this you will need to disconnect the drain hose, and remove the back panel from your Whirlpool washer.

Any debris that’s present will be easy to see.

If there are no visible blockages you’ll want to use a multimeter to test that the drain pump itself is functioning properly.

To check this remove the wire connectors from both terminals on the pump.

You’ll need to test both terminals. Depending on your individual machine, the multimeter should read somewhere between 5 and 10 ohms.

If the reading is showing zero, the drain pump should be removed and replaced.

If Your Machine Has A Belt, Check It

Your Whirlpool washer may have a belt that helps the drum spin.

With normal use over time, the belt can become stretched or worn.

When this occurs it affects how fast the machine can spin.

When the washer belt becomes stretched it begins to slide around during wash cycles, and the washer will not be able to reach fast enough speeds to remove all the surplus water from your clothes.

The belt may be located on the front or back of your washer, depending on your specific Whirlpool model.

Once you locate it, inspect it for visible wear and tear.

If the belt is okay it will be snug and won’t wobble when turning the washer drum.

If the belt is visibly worn, stretched, or it moves when you turn the drum, you’ll need to have it replaced.

Check The Door Lock or Lid Switch (Most Common issue)

Whirlpool washer will not spin if door lock (for front loading machine) or lid switch (for top loading machine) if malfunctioned.

Door lock switch stays in series with wash motor electrical circuit.

And if the door lock is open, power will not flow to the motor.

The Clutch (Not Common Issue)

If your Whirlpool is a direct drive washer it may have a failing clutch. The clutch will prematurely wear due to loading the washer improperly.

You can do an easy eyeball test where you simply lean it back and look at the area surrounding the gearcase and clutch for signs of oil. If there is a lot of oil present, replace the gearcase.

Or, if you’d like to get more advanced with the eyeball test try this:

Use pliers to compress the clutch ring’s spring. Remove it from the drum
Check the rivet holes where the ring pads are held in place.
If there’s a great deal of debris in the holes, change the clutch.
Check the clutch for a glazed look that appears glossy and reflects light. This also signifies that it needs to be changed.
When checking these items, don’t remove the outer tub, simply remove the gearcase.

The Washer Timer or Control Board Failed (Not common issue)

Finally, if you’ve exhausted every other tip on this list it’s time to check the washer timer.

Your Whirlpool’s transmission has what’s called a neutral stop. This means the washer is stopped by a timer momentarily during the spin cycle so the spin can be engaged.

If your machine doesn’t do this, the washer timer is faulty and needs to be replaced.

You can check this by monitoring the machine while the load is draining. Once it’s been draining for 3 minutes go ahead and open the lid and close it again. If it spins, replace the timer.

Have you had similar problems with your Whirlpool washer? What did you do to fix it? Do you have other questions regarding the issue? Leave us a comment below and let’s discuss.